Burberry Fall 2020 Creates Modernity Through Nostalgia

Riccardo Tisci's time at Burberry so far has been nothing short of transformative.

Best known for the mix of streetwear and sensuality he previously brought to Givenchy, the Italian designer has truly ushered in a new era at the heritage house by using those same motifs among others to craft an image of modern Britain, which culturally is more diverse than ever before even as conflict continues in the political sphere. After reimagining motifs like the trench coat, the house tartan, and the TB logo, last season was Tisci's most ambitious yet as he presented a collection titled "Evolution," which progressed from tailored ensembles to eclectic eveningwear over the course of 110 looks. The moment communicated that Burberry has truly entered a new era, and with that established, possibilities are limitless.

It's only natural that this time, the chief creative officer went in a direction that's different, yet deepens the whole concept. Burberry Fall 2020, entitled "Memories" and unveiled at London's Kensington Olympia earlier today, looked to the designer's career roots and the various influences that shaped his current work. With focuses on places (such as London and India), people, and music, the collection went beyond Tisci's work at the house to examine what created the designer's unique creative vision in the first place.

The result was another behemoth of a collection, featuring a range of concepts that mixed Burberry's structured practicality and established motifs with a movement and eclecticism only Tisci could bring to the house. While neutral pieces were most prevalent, the show was not without pops of color, and pattern mixing (both of tartans and of rugby stripes) was on full display. Outerwear and tailoring dominated the collection, but flourishes in each look—unconventional silhouettes, shirts that contain multitudes, a recurring tied-waist aesthetic—kept the theme of youth center stage, using Tisci's influences to craft a never-before-seen wardrobe for the modern Londoner traveling the globe.

The Burberry Fall 2020 show, which unfolded on a raised, mirrored runway and also marked the debut of the Olympia bag collection, was certified carbon neutral, as the house took measures to offset the environmental impact of the big event. As the likes of FKA Twigs, Jacob Elordi, and Naomi Campbell watched a cast of models including Ugbad Abdi, Mariacarla Boscono, and Kendall Jenner exhibit the first Burberry wares to premiere this decade, it was clear that modernity rooted in established codes was at the center of everything. It's important to keep evolving, but even while doing that, remembering where one came from can be the best source of inspiration.